Foundations:
Like many fashion designers my humble beginnings began with me experimenting with t-shirts and shorts due to how easy they are to take apart and sew back together, serving as a great lesson in garment construction. The foundational skills I built from learning to make a shirt are the same skills that carried on into my ability to create jackets, outerwear, and other tops.
How to make a T-shirt
There are a few foundational garments that every designer should be familiar with early in their career. Here I start with the t-shirt and illustrate my understanding of how to create one. The ability to create a t-shirt requires the skills we need to branch out into either womens or mens wear, outerwear, sportswear, the list continues.
In 2001 Chiharu Shiota created a collection of giant dresses, this inspired my shirt.
28x20 foot button up shirt. Making this shirt brought curiosity out of a lot of people, employees at the fabric store wanted to know why I needed such large buttons, the UPS delivery man wanted to know how much fabric I bought for it to be that heavy, and I had many questions to ask myself regarding how I would make this shirt. During covid I had a creative studio in Gowanus, when a building I was renting from was fairly new and had many vacant studios. Although I had a small hole in the wall space, directly next to me was a much larger space. I measured the room and used that as my frame for how big I could make the shirt. I would transfer my shirt over to the room at night over the course of months figuring out how I was going to make the shirt. Eventually, once it was finished, I showcased it by draping it off of my friends house.
While I am proud to have executed such a difficult task by myself and overcame many obstacles just to make this one product, in the future I’d avoid a project that is so wasteful and I am now more environmentally conscious when I create.
My separating coveralls inspired me to start implementing zipper closures on more of my shirts and almost stop using buttons completely
Separating Coveralls
Everybody has a matching set, a top and bottom made to be worn as a unit. I explored this concept in tandem with the ideas of multifunctionality and reduced waste. Here I have a piece that can be worn as just pants, shorts, coveralls, overalls, a shirt, a jacket, or a vest. The concept behind a versatile piece like this is the reduced need for spending on multiple garments as this singular piece provides a wide selection of outfit choices. It is made from a waxed canvas.
Gradient Boro Shirt
Inspiration:
In my studio nothing is wasted. Here I have an assortment of various color fabric scraps that I cut into diamonds to use. Seeing as I had so many colors to choose from I decided to create a gradient effect with them going with mostly warm colors to contrast the black shirt. I like to incorporate tasteful and subtle details and fused those to ideas by including zippers that have a gradient which reveal other tones underneath. I incorporated one of my favorite styles which is the boro technique to apply this patchwork. Following the traditional mending techniques relating to “boro” I decided to be intentional with my stitching as well creating a diamond pattern with complementary colors to my patchwork
Sashiko stitch pattern inspiration
Boro stitch inspiration by Kapital
This piece was inspired by a blanket my friend's mother made for him. Growing up my friends and I were all big fans of wrestling and as we grew older our memorabilia and merch naturally stopped fitting us. My friend's Mom had the idea to take the old shirts that didn’t fit him and cement them in time as a quilt. I loved this idea and chose to apply to something I could wear that was broader than wrestling. Here I have a blend of shirts I used over time and grew out of, as well as some very wacky prints from things like blankets or patches as well.
Quilted Patchwork Shirt
Here I play off the concept of unifying a group of ideas that otherwise are unrelated to create one piece with a story.
Inspiration:
Woven Scraps Shirt
With this shirt I experimented with different elements of patchwork, here I wanted to weave all my fabrics within each other to train the eye to follow a pattern around the shirt. Fabric scraps well used and a very original shirt.
Too many garments emphasize detail on the front while ignoring the back, I have learned to incorporate balance that trains your eye around a garment.